The Unique Experience that is Patmos

By Helen Grubner. Filed in Uncategorized  |  
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Monastery of St John the Theologian - Chora, Patmos

On my last evening in Pandeli, Leros, I revisited Taverna Drosia.  In contrast to the previous evening, to my delight business was brisk.  The owner had been out fishing that morning and caught only three fish, one of which was cooked for me – absolutely divine!  Any bits I was not going to eat were devoured by a somewhat pregnant looking, one eyed, ginger cat – not a morsel wasted.

Yesterday morning before leaving Vangelis Studios, George who is something of a computer expert, enlightened me on a few matters with regard to my website.  As George and Sue were going to meet the catamaran to tout for business, I was able to get a lift with them to Agia Marina where we enjoyed a coffee all together before saying our farewells.

A quick stopover at the island of Lipsi and in no time we were arriving in Patmos where Jacob from Villa Zacharo Hotel was awaiting me.  From my room I have a great view of Chora and the Monastery of St John the Theologian.  Downstairs there are facilities to make tea, coffee or chocolate anytime, as well as cool water.  Unpacked and settled myself in for a one week stay then ventured out to explore the town a little and find a place to eat.  Sat down at Restaurant Pirofani by the harbour – quality food, however, portions small and I thought a little expensive with a beer costing 3.50 Euro.

The strong winds which began blowing last night have continued all of today but with the chill factor, this is good for walking.  Decided to catch the 0740 hours bus this morning to Chora (total 2 passengers) with the Monastery of St John the Theologian scheduled to open at 0800 hours.  Arrived just after this time to find the door still securely locked (once again, Greek time – anytime) so went walking through the village.  Wonderful architecture, many churches and much to my delight, numerous friendly, healthy cats.

Under persecution by the Turks, St Christodoulos asked the Byzantium Emperor Alexios Comninos I to give him the small, barren, arid island of Patmos to be his home, together with the surrounding islands and the Emperor donated it to him by a deed.  This document is displayed in the amazing Museum (6 Euro entrance fee) where most of the Monastery’s relics are kept, together with items of inestimable value.  St Christodoulos began building the Monastery of St John the Theologian in 1088.  Built only from rocks and five storeys high, from the outside it looks like a castle, a priority being to keep the monks safe from pirate attacks.

There are numerous Old Paths (Monopatia) on Patmos and I left Chora to walk down one of these to Skala, visiting the Cave of the Apocalypse on the way.  It was in this cave that St John wrote his divinely inspired Revelation of the Apocalypse, the last book of the New Testament.  Today the cave is surrounded by the Monastery of Revelation, however, descending forty three steps and into the cave, one sees the rock which split into three when John heard the voice of God, the place where the Apocalypse was written, the place where John slept, where he laid his head to rest and a crevice that he could hold on to for support as he stood.

On my return to the hotel, Jacob enlightened me – partly in Greek, partly in English, to a whole lot more about these two sites, deservedly declared in 1999 by UNESCO – World Heritage Sites.  I look forward to continuing my journey around Patmos tomorrow.

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