Itisallgreek2me

Tuesday, 5 July 2022… In order to get from Litochoro to Igoumenitsa, I had first to travel back to Thessaloniki. Left Litochoro at 07.25 hours, catching my second bus from Katerini at 08.00 hours, arriving in Thessaloniki just in time to catch my third bus of the day to Ioannina at 09.00 hours. Made it with a minute to spare, thereby avoiding a 3 and a half hour wait for the next bus.

The Egnatia Odos Motorway, built at an estimated cost of E6.77bn, is quite simply a miraculous feat of civil engineering. Stretching across Northern Greece from the Turkish border in the east to Igoumenitsa in the west, 50% of that cost was spent on 90km of bridges and tunnels, the longest tunnel being 4.7km. There are countless numbers of these twin-bore tunnels, most of them in the Pindus Mountain range.

On leaving Thessaloniki, at first the journey takes you along plains where various crops and fruit orchards flourish. From Veroia, the climbing begins in earnest and it is not long before you are passing by fields of sunflowers growing on a plateau and the Amyntaio Power Plant. Forested with oak, fir, beech and pine and home to the endangered brown bear, the Pindus Mountain range is nothing short of spectacular.

A bit over an hour’s wait in Ioannina then on to the fourth and final bus of the day… departed at 14.15 hours, arrived in Igoumenitsa around 15.45 hours. Four buses – 422km – cost E46.30.

I was surprised to find that I could hop off the bus at the Port, right opposite my accommodation at Oscar Hotel. After a warm welcome, I settled into my air-conditioned room with a balcony and a view. Home for the next 2 nights… I’m not too bothered about the 36°C temperature outside.

However, what I am bothered about is the lack of buses in this part of Greece and as I have just found out today, that is going to seriously affect my plans over the next 10 days. Buggar… I have some work to do rearranging my itinerary.

Wednesday, 6 July 2022… the reason for my 2 night stay in Igoumenitsa was to make a day trip today to Lia, a tiny village near the Albanian border and scene of atrocities in the Greek Civil War in the 1940’s. Nicholas Gage wrote a very moving book ‘Eleni’ … a true story about his mother who was tortured and murdered there. Her last words to Nick were to leave for America and never return to Greece. However, decades later as an investigative journalist, he did return to seek out those responsible for his mother’s death.

Anyway, as I discovered yesterday, there is only one bus a week to Lia and that leaves Igoumenitsa at 05.00 hours on a Thursday, returning 15.00 hours. Of absolutely no use to me as in the morning I leave for Parga.

It is even hotter out there today than yesterday so I have mostly stayed in my room. Ventured out early to buy things to sustain me through the day as I worked through making changes to my plans. Included in those changes is an extra night back in Igoumenitsa next week so that I will be visiting Lia on Thursday 14th… yay! Other changes to plans will surface as the days roll on.

Sunday, 3 July 2022… The heat index here is somewhere between OMG and WTF so I am taking the opportunity to rest up for a couple of days in my lovely apartment, accepting that the walks I had hoped to do won’t be happening this time.

Meandered down to the centre of town late morning and finally managed to get some decent pics of the mountain. Sat for sometime at a table at Spitaki enjoying a cold beer. A number of the ultra endurance runners were out and about… like me, relaxing, recharging and reflecting. When the 32 hour time limit for the race was up at 04.00 hours this morning, 82 runners had completed the race, 2 more crossed the finish line within minutes after the deadline and 31 did not finish in the time. However, they all showed incredible strength of mind and body and in my opinion, no one failed.

Monday, 4 July 2022… Another scorcher, however, it was of necessity that I venture out to obtain information about bus timetables for tomorrow. The annoying thing here in Greece is that although all bus companies operate under the umbrella of KTEL, each area is a separate company and if like me tomorrow, you want to travel from A to B to C to D, A can only tell you the timetable from there to B.

So, I have had to do my own research online. Tomorrow I will catch the first bus at 07.25 hours to Thessaloniki via Katerini. If I make it in time to catch the 09.00 hours bus from Thessaloniki to Ioannina, then I will make my final destination Igouminitsa around 16.45 hours. Otherwise, it will be more like 20.45 hours… rather a long day.

Came out of the bus company office and noticed a street market across the road… always like a good street market me. Bought pastries from a nearby bakery, cooled down eating my Spanakopita (spinach pie) in the Municipal Park, returned to my apartment, having to venture out again to buy a pen when my one and only ran out… buggar!

Much of the remainder of the day, I have spent endeavouring to amend two flight bookings. You see, Emirates have changed my itinerary… now leaving Athens for Dubai 24 hours later than originally booked which takes me out to my maximum 90 days allowed in Greece. My travel broker has sorted the ongoing Dubai/Auckland flight, however, I have to deal with my Chania/Athens flight with Sky Express and Auckland/Palmerston North flight with Air NZ. It’s all proving to be a headache but I’ll get there.

Topped off my stay in Litochoro with a return visit this evening to Meze Meze restaurant. Remembering the delicious Pumpkin Risotto I had there 3 years’ ago, I had the same again and wasn’t disappointed.

Saturday, 2 July 2022… Left my apartment this morning to walk to Myloi, a little bit of retracing my steps from 3 years’ ago. Met up again with Grigori, the Park Warden who reminded me of how much he loves Olympus, before taking the easy, well constructed path to the waterfall and return.

Briefly considered walking part of the E4 trail, however, good sense prevailed… not wise in this heat. I had hoped to walk the upper part of the E4 from Prionia to Agio Spilaio and the Agios Dionysios Monastery but the 2 Euro each way shuttle bus to Prionia isn’t running and I couldn’t justify E50 for a taxi to get me there and back.

Decided to take a path down to the Enipeas River Canyon and return to Litochoro that way… thinking speed doesn’t matter, forward is forward. When I reached the bottom, the bridge I was expecting to see did not exist, only rocks with blue and red painted dots. Removed my shoes and socks to cross to the other side, returning to Lakkos and Spitaki for a large Amstel, club sandwich and wedges.

Today I followed live online the progress of the runners in the Olympus Mythical Trail race. Incredibly, the first runner home, a Greek, ran the 101km in 17h22m18s. The first female runner home, in overall 11th position, ran the race in 21h18m30s. Ali (Alistair Watson) the English guy I talked to yesterday, put in an amazing performance, coming home 10th in 21h18m.

I don’t know how they do it… I walked around 6km today and was exhausted. I’ve never experienced the kind of heat that we are having here now. I wonder… what will it be like in August.

Friday, 1 July 2022… An early start this morning from Thessaloniki… it was already 26°C when I walked the 1.5km to the Train Station. Caught the 08.15 hours train to Litochoro… the nearest town to Mt Olympus National Park and the home of the Greek Gods. No chance to capture images on the relatively fast one hour journey, however, I couldn’t stop marvelling at the fields of sunflowers and kiwifruit orchards.

Exited the train expecting to see taxis, waiting to ferry me the 7km or so to Litochoro but no one there. Fortunately, my host Kostas had given me the number for Dimitris, a local taxi driver who, when I called, was more than happy to come and collect me. Fare E10… can’t complain at that.

Met Kostas, left my luggage and established that he would message me when my apartment was ready around 12.30 hours. Walked down to the Enipeas River for a late breakfast at Spitaki, where I spent time during a one week stay in 2019. Today I showed the waiting staff a photo of me with a moggy I befriended there 3 years’ ago and asked if they recognized it and was it still living? Oh yes, although I didn’t see her today, she’s still about and her name is Margarita.

After breakfast I walked on to look for a path by the river I loved so much 3 years’ ago and very quickly I realized there was some event soon to take place. During a lengthy conversation with Ali (Alistair Watson) from London, I learnt that tonight at 20.00 hours, the Olympus Mythical Trail race, an ultra endurance mountain running race, held on the first weekend of July, will be starting and finishing from that location. Ali is taking part… a maximum of 200 athletes are eligible to participate after meeting very strict criteria.

The route is 101km long, designed mainly on a combination of paths of varying passability but also mountain dirt roads and the positive altitude reaches 6960m. The time limit is 32 hours. I have total admiration for all the athletes taking part. If you are interested in finding out more go to www.omt100.com

After spending a relaxing afternoon in my lovely apartment, I sat on my balcony with a plate of meze and a glass of wine… complimentary bottle in the fridge. This evening wandered down to witness the start of the big race, however, the almost unbearable heat of earlier today continues and the great Mt Olympus has been shrouded in cloud for much of the day.

I have come here with hopes of doing some lovely walks. If the weather gets any hotter, I don’t think I’ll be able to do it.

Thursday, 30 June 2022… Before beginning today’s walk up to Ana Poli, I had first to visit a Vodafone store to Top Up my phone. That done, I headed for the Atatürk Museum, birthplace in 1881 of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, much loved and respected founder of modern Turkey. 🇹🇷 I knew I was almost there when I noticed a number of police near the Turkish Consulate… doing very little, other than drinking coffee.

To gain entry to the three floor dwelling and courtyard, painted it’s original pink colour, you must ring the bell and get permission to enter. The large heavy door will be opened, you sign in and entry is free. Having spent a total of 3 months in Turkey 2019/20 and understanding how much Atatürk means to the Turkish people, I found my visit today very moving.

With the temperature soaring to around 35°C, the walk up to the Tower of Trigoniou was no mean feat. Built at the end of the 15th century, it is the Byzantine city walls most famous tower and today Mt Olympus could be seen in the distance. Entry costs E6, or E3 if you are from the EU and the same ticket will get you into the Heptapyrgion fortress.

Situated on the north eastern corner of the acropolis of Thessaloniki, the Heptapyrgion has towered over the city for more than 1,000 years. In the late 19th century it was converted into a prison which remained open until 1989. Viewing those tiny cells today… not a nice feeling.

Ana Poli was one of the only historic neighbourhoods to survive the Great Fire of 1917. Today I made my way slowly, down through it’s narrow winding streets lined with traditional houses… now relieved to be back in my air conditioned room. Tomorrow at 08.15 hours, I take a train to Litochoro.

Wednesday, 29 June 2022… Finally made it into bed this morning at 02.00 hours. Not certain, but I may have been ripped off by the taxi driver who bought me here. Normally I would ask first approximately how much but didn’t… E35 seemed a lot but nevermind.

My room isn’t anything to rave about really but the location couldn’t be better. With a balcony looking out over a large park and very very central. The first thing I heard this morning was the call to come buy bananas and cherries from a street vendor… E2.50 (NZ$4.20) for 4 lovely bananas and half a kilo of delicious cherries.

Managed to clock up 10km walking today in temperatures above 30°C. Went first to a bus station (wrong one for where I want to go) then to a train station and now have my ticket to travel to Litochoro on Friday by train.

I had a few places in mind that I hoped to see in Thessaloniki, however, I found a multitude of interesting things to look at today. Almost opposite my room is the beautiful Church of Panagia Chalkeon. A little further on the statue of Eleftherios Venezelos with a pigeon sitting on his head. Bey Haman… a Turkish Bathhouse, alternatively known as the Baths of Paradise. The ruins of a monumental marble fountain, probably built in the 4th century AD.

One of the main attractions in Thessaloniki is the Roman Arch of Galerius. Not far away, the Rotunda and Minaret… added during the Ottoman occupation. The archeological site of Caesar Galerius’ Palace. The White Tower and near the Beach Promenade just beyond, the Alexander the Great Monument and the Umbrellas Zongopoulos.

Walking back, I eventually came to Aristotelous Square and the Statue of Aristotle. I wandered through the Kaponi Market then passed by the Roman Agora on my way to the Church of St. Demetrius.

Tonight around 20.00 hours, I watched over my balcony as a large group of protesters went by on the street below. It has certainly been a very full and satisfying day.

Monday, 27 June 2022… My week on Chalki will soon be over as tomorrow my journey takes me North. As there is no beach in my schedule for the next 10 days, today I just had to spend at Ftenagia. Met up with Curly and Mandy around 10’ish for the walk over, staying at the beach most of the day. Dips in the sea and strong wind gusts made the heat more bearable and naturally, a break for lunch and cold beers in the Taverna.

Being my last night on Chalki, had to go out for dinner. I enjoyed the most delicious Moussaká at Valantis Restaurant before moving on to Apostolis Cafe Bar to meet up with Curly and Mandy. In due course, they arrived, then Mandy invited Linda who was sitting alone at the next establishment, to join us. A lovely farewell to Chalki for now… made it into bed at 01.30 hours.

When we have the courage to get out there and live our lives, we never know what to expect around the next corner. A chance meeting last Wednesday with Curly and Mandy has, I hope, led to a lifelong friendship. Thanks you two for sharing and making memories together.

Tuesday, 28 June 2022… Moved out of my home of the past week around 11.00 hours with time to kill until the departure of Dodekanisos Pride at 14.10 hours. Sat at Apostolis and had something to eat and drink, watching for the last time, the little boats bobbing about in the harbour. ETA Rhodes 15.25 hours… had planned to catch a bus to the airport. However, to cut a long and complicated story short, shared a taxi with an Italian couple, paying half the fare.

More time to kill until departure Sky Express 20.20 hours for Thessaloniki, via Athens, ETA 23.48 hours. Security at Rhodes Airport had a wonderful time taking everything out of my well packed day pack, then scanning it all for a second time… grrr! However, a mass display of Metaxa in duty free was to warm my heart soon after.

Finally boarded just as the sun was going down, however, late departure from Rhodes had me wondering… would I make my connecting flight to Thessaloniki?

I’ve made it in time… now waiting for boarding at Gate B22 in Athens. Hopefully taxi to my accommodation will all go to plan… phew! All this after a late night/early morning and a fair amount of imbibing yesterday.

Saturday, 25 June 2022… A pattern seems to be emerging as once again, Curly and Mandy turned up last night at Apostolis Cafe Bar. Also Tony and Lynn, two more regular visitors to Chalki, however, they were heading home today.

Such a beautiful day … not quite so hot and humid and a lovely welcoming breeze. Decided to walk up to the Windmills above Ftenagia beach… Pontamos beach, the Castle and Trachea all in view from somewhere along the way. A slight mishap on the rocks has left me with a black and bruised, rather sore thumb… I really should be more careful.

Ended my walk at Ftenagia beach and after having a yummy Special Omelette for brunch there, spent the afternoon lounging in the sun and swimming in the gorgeous Aegean Sea. I think I must be a heliophile… someone who enjoys sunny weather, needing summer all year round.

Sunday, 26 June 2022… Up until now, the quietest day of my travels. Left my room around 09.00 hours for a wee stroll. Stopped at Dimitris Bakery for breakfast, just missing the first boat of the day to Kania beach, however, Curly and Mandy made it in time and saved me a sunbed by them on the water’s edge under the trees. Only left there to go and have lunch in the excellent on-site restaurant, returning on the 17.00 hours boat.

For the second night in a row I’m not venturing out. After tomorrow I’ll be upping the pace again… just making sure my batteries are fully recharged.

Thursday, 23 June 2022… My quiet ouzo with meze last night at Apostolis Cafe Bar snowballed into a late one, following the arrival of Curly and Mandy. Enjoying their company until 01.00 hours and left wondering… how did it get so late so soon!

Arranged to meet up with Curly and Mandy again this morning, catching the 10.00 hours Giannis Express to Kania, a small pebbled beach with crystal clear waters. Mandy is following in the footsteps of her dad and late mum who are well remembered on the island, including by the delightful Michalis. Kapitánios on the boat, he collects everyone’s E5 and issues tickets for the return journey, when he serves up raki to those who wish to imbibe.

Staked our claim on three sunbeds and umbrella located right on the beach and somewhat separated from others. These are provided free when you have lunch at the restaurant which has a very good reputation for serving fresh fish and seafood. Although I only had a Greek Salad and Fries today, both were delicious. It’s been a day of relaxation in a quiet and peaceful location.

Friday, 24 June 2022… I have to say I’m rather enjoying the slower pace this week. At 09.30 hours, met up with Curly and Mandy down at the harbour. While they had their morning coffee and orange juice, I watched the local priest smoking and playing backgammon.

A short walk along a rocky path led us to Ftenagia, another very clean pebble beach with crystal clear turquoise water. Sunbeds there cost E3 per person to hire… well worth paying to be comfortable in such a relaxed, peaceful and quiet place. Once again, a top rate restaurant on-site for lunch.

Tonight ventured out around 21.00 hours… still very early by Greek standards. Managed a few night shots before returning to Apostolis Cafe Bar for an ouzo with meze… maybe one, maybe two!

Tuesday, 21 June 2022… Up and out the door before 07.00 hours to walk to the Port. Managed a few more photos on the way… the Old Town pretty much still sleeping. Feeling somewhat relieved to be leaving cosmopolitan Rhodes, I boarded the ferry Dodekanisos Pride early for the 1 hour 15 minute ride to Chalki, the smallest of the Dodecanese islands.

Arriving at Nimborios (also known as Emporios) at 09.15 hours, made the short, albeit uphill walk to my lodgings Kleanthe, to be met by Ioanna. A beautiful traditional house with 3 studio apartments, it feels very much like a haven of peace and a natural remedy for anxiety.

Around midday, made the short walk to Pontamos… an organized beach, however, with space to put your towel down on the sand if like me, you’re not interested in paying E8 for a sunbed and umbrella. Evening stroll around the Port then a Taverna meal I’d rather forget… three local moggies happy to be beneficiaries of my unwanted food.

Wednesday, 22 June 2022… Day 2 on Chalki began with a walk down to Dimitris Bakery to buy mia milópita (one apple pie) for breakfast, returning briefly to my room before setting off to walk to Palió Chorió (old village). A mostly deserted Medieval settlement from where a path leads up to the top of the hill, dominated by the remains of the Castle of the Knight’s. Inside the Kastro is the deserted church of Agios Nicholaos with 15-17th century murals. However, with the door securely locked there was no chance of seeing those so had to content myself with the panoramic views. On my way back down the hill, took a side path to see the rock-cut benches inscribed (of Zeus of Hekate) interpreted as thrones or alters and dated to the Hellenistic period.

The heat I can cope with, plus there has been quite a nice breeze the past 2-3 days, however, I don’t do flies and on my walk today they seldom left me alone… really bothersome. I’m guessing the rubbish tip along the way may have much to do with the problem.

Arriving back as far as Pontamos beach around midday, enjoyed Yemistá (stuffed tomato and capsicum) for lunch with a large beer at Nick’s Taverna. Got chatting to Curly and Mandy, a couple from Cornwall… two more people who I hope will become inspired from following my intrepid travels. Had a quick swim then home for a siesta and Blogging time.

Now just on dusk and I’m sitting down at Apostolis Cafe Bar in the harbour with an ouzo and meze… another beautiful day will soon be over.