Itisallgreek2me

Tuesday, 26 July 2022… Farewelled Kyparissía at 11.00 hours as I left on the bus… a 90 minute ride to Kalamata. Today almost everything worked like clockwork. The 13.00 hours bus on to Kardamýli did exist… just a minor hiccup, my ticket said bus 46, leaving from platform 5. In fact, it was bus 53, leaving from platform 9!

The 75 minute ride from Kalamata to Kardamýli was a slow, hair raising at times journey along a winding, mountainous road but oh so picturesque. I love the sea, however, I am in awe of the mountains and Kardamýli, in the region of Messenia on the Mani Peninsula, sits between the peak of the Taygetos mountain range… Profitis Ilias at 2407m and the Messenian Gulf.

The village and surrounds are so beautiful that British architect and romantic, Charles Robert Cockerell described Kardamýli as being indescribably picturesque with a sensual smell of jasmine, wild herbs and sea that are picked up on the warm breeze.

Wednesday, 27 July 2022… I began today with a stroll around the village. Most of the older buildings are around 300 years’ old and made from local stone. Not too far away is the fortified complex of Troupakis-Mourtzinos in Old Kardamýli. A small collection of abandoned tower houses, clustered around the 18th century church of Ayios Spyridon… a must see in the area.

I’m not sure what possessed me, however, then decided to walk up to the 17th century church of Agia Sophia. Passed by the Tombs of the twin gods Castor and Pollux… onwards and upwards alongside the Vyros Gorge. Such breathtaking views from the mountains to the sea… well worth the journey.

Saturday, 23 July 2022… Left my room in Olympia this morning, allowing a little time for a walkabout before catching the 11.30 hours bus to Pyrgos, arriving 12.15 hours.

On the Ktel Bus Company website, it states “Kathimerenes” (which literally means every days) there is a bus from Pyrgos to Kyparissía at 13.25 hours. Seemed like perfect timing, however… the man at the ticket office informed me Kathimerenes means Monday to Friday, not Saturday and Sunday! You figure?🤔🤔🤔

So, there was a bus leaving at 16.00 hours, travelling south to Kaló Neró before turning east toward Tripoli and onward to Athens. Kaló Neró being just north of Kyparissía, from there I was able to call a taxi to come and pick me up, to take me the last few kilometers, arriving at my Hotel just before 18.00 hours.

Sunday, 24 July 2022… Began my day around 09.00 hours with a walk up to the Old Town, the area beneath the Byzantine Castle which, unfortunately, is temporarily closed. Came across a lovely Cafe with a view… perfect place to have breakfast. Returned to my room for a couple of hours rest before making a 15 minute stroll down to Ai-Lagoudis Beach where I stayed all afternoon. Unlike most other places I have been, today there was no charge for the sunbed and umbrella… expectations are that you will buy at least a drink. With few tourists in Kyparissía, food and drink prices everywhere are very reasonable too.

Monday, 25 July 2022… I have just been reading online, a major fire broke out yesterday near Ancient Olympia. Residents evacuated from several villages, including Krestena. I passed through there on Saturday… a little too close for comfort!

I so enjoyed my time yesterday at the beach and with nothing better to do today, returned for another dose of sun, sea and salt air. These are lazy, hazy, not so sure about crazy, days of summer!

In the evening, walked back up to the Old Town for dinner at Arkadía Gefsipoleío Restaurant. As I watched all the stages of the sun setting over the Ionian Sea, I reminded myself to live every day like there is no tomorrow.

Friday, 22 July 2022… Firstly, thank you everyone for caring ❤ I did have mixed feelings about sharing my misfortunes. However, according to my website Stats, only four Blogs which I wrote during my week on the island of Chalki and which were shared with the large expat community there, have received more views than “Caught Between A Rock And A Hard Place”… amazing!!!

A ferry and actually three buses, not two, brought me yesterday to Olympia. All very well timed as planned, arriving before the intense afternoon heat. Very sad to see the effects of last year’s wildfires still evident in the area. I’m very happy with my lodgings for 2 nights and having the use of a small communal kitchen means I can self cater. I can’t tell you how delicious boiled potatoes, carrots and zucchini tasted last night. 🥔🥕🥒

Tempted to go out walking in the evening, I reminded myself of how I felt just one day earlier and wisely stayed in to rest and prepare myself for today’s adventures.

The religious sanctuary of Ancient Olympia is, of course, famous as the birthplace of the Olympic Games, held there every four years from 776 BC to 393 AD. What is less well known is that it was also a place where remarkable works of art and culture were created and shared to worship the Greek god Zeus.

Conscious of my need to beat the heat of the day, this morning I was at the entrance to the archeological site around 08.00 hours opening time. Followed that up with visiting the Museum of Olympia, housed in a modern building and then the Museum of the Olympic Games, housed in a beautiful old building.

I cannot find words to adequately describe what I have seen and experienced today. In my opinion, Olympia far surpasses the Acropolis, the Acropolis Museum, Delphi and every other archeological place I have visited in Greece. The best I can do is quote what is written on an information board as you near the ancient site.

… no bright star more quickening than the sun must thou search in the void firmament by day, so neither shall we find any games greater than the Olympic whereof to utter our voice… (For Hieron of Syracuse, Winner in the Horse-Race, Sir Richard Francis Burton, 1821-1890 – Translation)

In the fertile valley of legendary Alpheus and its tributary, Kladeus, in a place of unique and superb natural beauty with rich mythological tradition, was founded the Sanctuary of Zeus, father of Gods and Humans, in the dawn of historic period.

Although geographically isolated, as located in this corner of the western Peloponnese, Olympia stood out historically as the most important Panhellenic religious, political and athletic centre of the ancient Greek world.

Olympia, a monument inscribed in the Catalogue of the World Cultural Heritage of Unesco 1989, was the cradle for ideals, which characterized the Humanity through centuries, such as noble rivalry and fair playing. By implanting these values, Olympia, since antiquity and to eternity, teaches mankind to seek and achieve moral “kotinus” – triumphs.

Welcome to Ancient Olympia!

Sunday, 17 July 2022… I certainly had some doubts as to whether my taxi would arrive in the morning… a very strange man, however, he did turn up and I made it in time to catch the 09.30 hours Lefkada/Athens bus, getting off in Rio around 11.45 hours. Took a taxi from there to Patras Bus Station… the good news being I didn’t need to go to Pyrgos but rather direct to Kyllini, however, I had a long wait for the 15.45 hours departure. Hot as hell, not feeling great… more about that later.

So, you put your luggage on the bus and board yourself to travel the one hour 15 minutes journey to Kyllini. If, like me, you don’t already have a paper ticket for the ferry (booked online) the driver waits while you hurriedly visit the ticket office, reboard the bus and get driven the short distance to the ferry. You walk on board, leaving your luggage on the bus which also travels over on the ferry to the island of Zakynthos. Off the ferry and back on the bus to be driven to Zakynthos Bus Station… all very unusual. Some messaging between me and my host then Georgios came to collect me. Anxious to get a good night’s sleep, settled into my lovely spacious apartment and retired early.

Monday, 18 July 2022… Now, maybe some of you have been astute enough to read between the lines… I’m not sure, however, for more than a week I’ve done my best to cover up the fact that I’ve not been very well. Barely able to look at food and with diarrhea… the heat not helpful either. Stubborn me, I should have gone to see a Doctor at least a week ago but didn’t. By this morning I was left with no choice and messaged Georgios to help me get to a Doctor.

It seems I probably have a bacterial infection in my gut, however, results from the laboratory will take 3 days to confirm. In the meantime, I’m on antibiotics, electrolytes etc and resting and I have to call the Doctor daily… I think I’ve avoided hospitalization by a whisker.

I’m so grateful and fortunate to be where I am… my hosts are extremely nice, genuine, caring people. Georgios comes downstairs from his office several times a day to check on me and is only a phone call away day and night. His lovely wife Vicki (Vasiliki) came and made me Chicken Soup in the apartment today. All I want is to feel well again so that I can continue with my travels.

Tuesday, 19 July 2022… With the help of a sleeping tablet, I slept right through the night. Thankfully the diarrhea has stopped and although I’m still feeling quite weak, I am able to eat light foods such as boiled rice, chicken soup, bread and honey and of course, plenty of fluids.

Sadly I have seen nothing of this beautiful island, however, I have met two of the loveliest people.

Wednesday, 20 July 2022… Realizing that I couldn’t stay forever in the apartment, made ready to visit a nearby supermarket, however, I hadn’t the strength to walk there. Instead, packed up my belongings and an overnight bag, just in case and Georgios drove me to the hospital.

After several hours on an intravenous drip I felt very much better and my blood results were excellent. I may never know just exactly what has made me so unwell these past 2 weeks, however, hopefully by Thursday evening the Lab results from Monday’s sample will be to hand and provide some answers.

Thursday, 21 July 2022… So, the only Image I have to share from Zakynthos is a selfie… masked up in hospital and on a drip… SAD! I’m on a ferry right now, departing Zakynthos for Kyllini on the mainland. Hoping to make the 09.30 hours bus to Pyrgos then another to Olympia… should arrive early afternoon. I’ll rest for the remainder of the day and fingers crossed, tomorrow I’ll be a sightseer.

Friday, 15 July 2022… My original plan was to stay 3 nights in Lefkada, however, when I found out last week that there wasn’t a bus on Thursdays from Igoumenitsa, that is when I rearranged things so that yesterday I could take the weekly bus to Liá, stay an extra night in Igoumenitsa, then travel on to Lefkada today for a shorter stay.

Leaving Igoumenitsa at 11.45 hours, the two hour journey seemed to take no time at all as I found myself sitting next to Jean-Marie, a kindred spirit from Belgium. On arrival in Lefkada, went our separate ways as I hopped into a taxi to take me to Ionian Breeze Studios. Thinking I had booked a fairly central location, I questioned the driver as we seemed to be heading further out of town. He was right, I was wrong… a nice place in Frini, a rather affluent suburb with many large villas and resort style accommodation, close to Agios Ioannis beach.

So with limited time here, lack of energy and the location more remote than I would have wished for, made the decision to not even attempt to see more of the island (joined to the mainland via causeway). Checked out the beach… very popular with windsurfers and kite surfers and decided tomorrow I’ll spend most of the day there.

Saturday, 16 July 2022… With today’s forecast high in Lefkada being 37°C, I was out walking early, covering quite a distance along Agios Ioannis beach before returning as far as Varkó Beach Bar/Restaurant and there I stayed until well into the afternoon. Somewhat reluctantly paid my E10 for two sunbeds and an umbrella, however, I was very comfortable and the amount of time spent there kind of made it worthwhile. Being able to order yoghurt, fruit and honey for lunch which they delivered to me on the beach was rather nice too.

Tomorrow morning I’ll take a taxi back to the Bus Station. I have a ticket for the Athens bus departing at 09.30 hours, however, I will get off in Rio… from there on everything is a wait and see. I know I have then to get to Patras, then Pyrgos, then Kyllini and from Kyllini I have a ticket for the 21.30 hours ferry to Zakynthos but I’m hoping with a bit of luck I might be there in time for an earlier sailing 😉

Thursday, 14 July 2022… Since first reading many years’ ago, ‘Eleni’ by Nicholas Gage, I have yearned to visit Liá. A tiny village high up in the inhospitable Mourgana mountain range, close to the Albanian border, I somehow needed to connect with Liá, even though I knew the feeling would be somber.

Leaving Igoumenitsa at 05.00 hours on the only weekly bus, after dropping off 3 Greek people at another village, the driver invited me to sit up front in order to take in the views. Fortunately, I had thought to take some warmer clothing as when we arrived in Liá, it was only 14°C.

During the Greek Civil War in the 1940’s, Communist guerillas occupied Liá and did their best to take the children of the village, sending them beyond the Iron Curtain. Eleni Gatzoyiannis, an incredibly strong, intelligent and loving mother, arranged to have 4 of her 5 children smuggled out under darkness and for this ‘crime’ she was held prisoner in the cellar of her own home. Being the largest home in the village (3 rooms) the guerillas had taken it over to use as their headquarters. Eleni was tortured and then shot… her body and others left in the ravine where they fell. There being no room left in the garden… with 37 bodies already buried under the mulberry tree.

Eléni’s last words to her son Nick were to join his father in Massachusetts and never return to Greece. However, many years’ later as an investigative journalist, Nicholas Gage returned to track down his mother’s killers.

Only by visiting could I understand the remoteness and beauty of Liá and obviously much has changed too over the years. Liás Inn, a place for travellers to stopover is closed, the kafeneion is closed, the museum temporarily closed. Not so much as a toilet anywhere for public use, meant heading for the bushes, keeping an apprehensive eye open for snakes which I’m told there are plenty of in the area. A number of street dogs too… one in particular was determined to stick with me. Another fearlessly chased away a cow, many of which roamed aimlessly along the winding road.

With very little life in the village, I did manage to ask a couple of people where I might find Eléni’s house. Rebuilt in 2002 by Nick Gage’s daughter Eléni, Eléni’s granddaughter, I followed a road upwards, came to a sign saying ‘ELÉNI’S HOUSE’ and in spite of following the direction of the arrow, eventually I had to admit defeat. So close and yet so far.

Not long before the bus returned for me around 15.00 hours, a local passerby offered to take me to see Eléni’s House on his motor scooter. Although seriously tempted, I had no wish to miss my ride back to Igoumenitsa. It had been a very long, albeit fulfilling day on which I will reflect forever… Eléni, the Greek mother who made the ultimate sacrifice for her children. ❤

Tuesday, 12 July 2022… The most uneventful day imaginable, I stayed in my room in an effort to recharge my failing body batteries. No need for worry, it’s Friday now and at last, I feel like a new woman.

Wednesday, 13 July 2022… With not too much I had to achieve, checked out of Vasiliki Apartments at 12 noon, left my luggage there for later collection while I meandered about Lakka, waiting for the 16.00 hours bus to the Port. Unfortunately, I don’t feel I did Paxos justice this trip. One of those things… shit happens! Two hours hanging around at the Port waiting for F/B Agia Theodora to sail at 18.15 hours, arriving 19.45 hours back in Igoumenitsa and to Hotel Oscar just across the road. Got organized as best I could, ready for my long awaited day trip to Liá in the morning. Early night, early start… bus departure 05.00 hours.

Sunday, 10 July 2022… Ever since reading ‘The Stars Over Paxos’ by John Gill, I’ve wanted to come to Paxos. I had to check out of my room in Parga by 11.00 hours so spent the best part of 3 hours having one last final look around before taking a taxi with Labros back to Igoumenitsa.

It was a nice feeling being back on a ferry boat, heading for yet another Greek island… this time Paxos. After some confusion my pre-booked taxi eventually arrived to take me to Lakka. Driven by a young woman, part of the family business, she drove like a rally driver along the narrow, windy island roads, even managing a phone call… these Hellenes are fearless. Not quite sure how but I seem to have scored the best room view wise at Vasiliki Apartments… worth all the steps to get to the 4th floor.

Located at the northern most end of the island, I took an early evening orientation walk around the village. First impressions… although a calm and relaxing environment prevails, it appears to cater mainly to the well heeled with prices to match. Whereas on Chalki, for example, I sat and watched the little fishing boats bobbing about in the harbour… in Lakka it’s a line of speed boats for hire.

Unfortunately, a much needed good night’s sleep eluded me as music blared up from down in the village until 02.30 hours and it wasn’t even my style of Greek music… grrr!

Monday, 11 July 2022… Not feeling much like rushing out early this morning, I made it in time to take the 11.00 hours bus to Gaios, the capital and main settlement of Paxos. While the majority of people seemed to be heading to a beach, I set out to walk to the Tripitos Arch (also known as Kamara). A natural rock arch which is actually part of a collapsed sea wall. You can walk across the top of it, but… not this girl!

Taking the mainly uphill road out of Gaios to Ozias, from there the route becomes less obvious, as first you walk along minor roads, eventually leading to a rocky path between stone walls and finally down a steep incline then, WOW… you see the breathtaking view! Few people get to see it from above as the majority prefer to take an organized boat trip, but… yuk, not my style of travel. With music blasting on board, on one boat today it was Michael Jackson’ ‘Billie Jean’.

Returned to Gaios at a snail’s pace, where I found a quiet Taverna away from all the hullabaloo to have lunch and wait for the 17.30 hours bus back to Lakka. Staying put tonight… so far, no repeat of last night’s music.

Friday, 8 July 2022… With the weather forecast predicting slightly cooler temperatures, partly cloudy skies and possible thunderstorms, today seemed to be the ideal day for getting out walking and visiting the Ali Pasha Castle.

The Ali Pasha Castle or Castle of Anthoussa was built by Ali Pasha, the Turkish governor of Ioannina, in 1814, above the picture perfect village of Anthoussa. Overlooking the entire bay of Parga, the walls of the Castle are still preserved and the views are impressive.

With Studios Spiros Parga located near the upper main road, it made perfect sense to head off that way this morning. Eventually arriving in Anthoussa, I enquired there as to the best route to take up the hill and chose the path over the road access.

By the time I made it to the top, it appeared that the forecast could well be correct as the skies darkened and scattered rain drops fell. Thinking it may well set in, I rushed to take whatever photos I could before making my way back down to Anthoussa, ending up at Cafe Bar Neon for another of those well earned cold beers.

Up at the Castle I had struck up a conversation with Ashley from the UK and whilst I was sitting at Cafe Bar Neon, Ashley and Lee arrived back in the village and also came for the same reason to Neon. Nikos, the very entertaining and most delightful owner of the place, made us all feel so welcome and it was such an enjoyable part of the day. Nikos’ cat “Bouncer” took a real shine to me too and the entire village had such a lovely feeling.

With plenty of time on my side, I decided to take the lower road back to Parga. So pleased that I did as the walk was spectacular… past the old watermill, giant olive trees, in fact, a sea of green. Stopped at Infinity on Valtos beach for a Greek Salad. By the time I reached my accommodation, I had clocked up around 10km for the day… many of those you could say had a moderate level of difficulty.

Saturday, 9 July 2022… Without a shadow of a doubt, today has been my quietest in 6 weeks. I’m still battling to sort out the changes to my travel plans either end of my Emirates flights home… a real pain in the proverbial.

Unfortunately, with the no buses on weekends scenario here, nothing else has turned up to get me back to Igoumenitsa tomorrow so the E55 taxi is booked. I can only do what one must do and by tomorrow evening, I should be settled into my apartment on the island of Paxos.

Thursday, 7 July 2022… The only passenger to board the 06.00 hours bus in Igoumenitsa, going to Parga, was me, although we zigzagged off the main road from time to time and picked up the odd passenger here and there. Grateful to be met at the bus station by my host Spiros, who took care of my luggage until later in the day.

Uppermost in my mind before leaving Igoumenitsa was that there are no buses between the two places on weekends and I need to return to Igoumenitsa on Sunday in order to catch my ferry to Paxos. The thought had crossed my mind that perhaps I could go to Paxos on one of the daily excursion boats from Parga? However, after going down to the pier this morning and talking to one of the captains, I now know it’s not possible, in fact, it’s forbidden… every passenger they take they must return. So, short of a miracle, it will be a E55 taxi ride on Sunday.

Enjoyed strolling about the town (clocked up more than 8km today) while the majority of the tourists were still sleeping off last night’s escapades, ending up at Valtos beach. Located in the bay on the other side of the Venetian Castle, I enquired about the cost of a sunbed and umbrella. They wanted E10… it’s a set he said, 2 sunbeds and an umbrella, no allowance for a sole traveller. Oh well, planted my towel on the pebbles at the far end of the beach and spent 3-4 hours in my own little paradise.

Spoke to a lady I noticed walking along the shoreline, picking up some things off the beach. Her name was Birgitta, she is from Denmark and since she was a little girl, she has collected pieces of glass off beaches all over the world. Birgitta told me how therapeutic she finds this hobby so I tried it today and you know what, Birgitta was right. Walking along the shoreline, having the occasional dip and searching for these little gems… any stresses and worries soon disappeared.

After making my way slowly back up the hill, I visited the Venetian Castle which had been closed earlier in the day, before checking into my studio apartment. The harbour was heaving tonight when I went down for something to eat and drink… I guess they all have to holiday somewhere.

Tomorrow’s weather forecast isn’t looking too great… partly cloudy and possible thunderstorms in the afternoon. It could be a perfect day for walking to Anthoussa and up to the Ali Pasha Castle.